The « Cafeteros » region is an area comprised of many towns of various sizes sitting amid rolling hills, vibrating to the colours of its coffee plants. In between two stays in the very centre of coffee plantations that offer rooms for rent (Hacienda Venecia) and hotel accommodation (Hacienda Combia), I spent three nights in a youth hostel in the very touristic village of Salento, near Cocora, the famous valley of palms.
Salento, definitely aimed at Tourists
It is true that Salento’s coloured façades and colonial architecture give it a certain charm. However, I must admit that, for me, seeing a whole street full of stores selling only local handicrafts and souvenirs for tourists simply breaks the initial charm …
An increasing amount of tourists visit Colombia every year, and I am somewhat leery about what Salento could become should it continue on this road for much longer … Is it not evident that other villages around there will jump on the band-wagon, thereby diluting the concentration of tourists in that one village?
About thirty minutes away from Salento by jeep, we find the famous Cocora Valley, which is part of the big « Los Nevados » national park protecting the Quindio wax palm tree—one of Colombia’s national symbols once in danger of extinction.
A meeting with Cristina, Founder of Páramo Trek
Juan Pablo, Manager of Hacienda Venecia where I had stayed just before going to Salento, put me in contact with Cristina, Founder of Páramo Trek, who incidentally lives in Salento. We had supper together and got to know one another the very first evening we met. We really clicked! I learned a bit more about the challenges faced by tourism businesses in Salento, as well as the rather sensitive subject of professional guides versus the local guys who call themselves ‘guides’ (see the video on Hopineo).
La Serrana Youth Hostel and its home-made Yogurt
I only stayed three nights in Salento, at La Serrana Youth Hostel. Its director, Jonathan, originally from New York but living in Armenia—the next town over—had contacted me on LinkedIn to suggest that I stay at his youth hostel. Unfortunately, he ended up being extremely busy when I was there. So I prepared a series of ideas regarding the application of best ethical practices to be suggested to the manager, Carolina, as well as a video to show on Hopineo on “how to make your own yogurt” with Olga.
I stayed in contact with Cristina, who then directed me towards a new coffee plantation/hotel which had recently been awarded a sustainable tourism prize for its coffee tours promoting local heritage. Hacienda Combia is situated one hour away from Salento, in Calarcá, just next to Armenia. Are you ready to dive again into the coffee world with me?
Translated by my canadian friend Helene Masson